This small farming community is surrounded by a spectacular scenery of rolling hills covered with grassland and sugarcane. Scattered around the countryside, Zulu's live in a mix of traditional and modern lifestyles. The traditional round hut, the Rondoval, has been enhanced with electricity, phones, TV, and the occasional metal roof. On the next hillside, a stone's throw away, another Zulu family may live as their ancestors have for centuries.
We stayed at a great youth hostel, the Zululand Backpackers (plug, plug), owned by a South African that was born and raised in Eshowe. His first language was Zulu and he knows everyone in the area. Naturally, he receives invitations to many Zulu events, such as weddings, coming-out ceremonies, Witch Doctor initiations, etc., and passes those invites on to his guests. In this way, the Zulu community receives a small income and we get to experience authentic Zulu culture. Additionally, the family welcomes the photo-snapping tourists as official photographers.
Early one morning, we were pointed in the right direction and set off trekking across the hills. After wandering for two hours amongst the stunning scenery, we were found by our official host, Walter. He toured us around the community, served us tea and biscuits, and explained the Zulu way of life.
As with any culture, the children are uninhibited and genuinely curious. They are fascinated with the camera and the whole concept of photos. Occasionally, curiosity gets the best of them and they reach out to touch our white skin. Whereas Nigerian children seem to be awestruck by westerners, these Zulu children were more outgoing. Not shy, these girls were strutting and posing for the camera.
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Under Zulu law, when a couple marries they receive a plot of land to build a home, raise cattle, and plant crops. The rondoval in the middle is the family's communal center, where they gather to socialize and take meals. The surrounding rondovals are for each of the wives, where more private affairs take place. Notice the occasional "modern" square structure with metal roofs. |
That afternoon we attended a traditional wedding ceremony. To win his bride, the groom pays 11 head of cattle to the bride's father. This is a small fortune for most young Zulu men and they spend many years working and saving before considering marriage. From what I could tell, there was more emphasis on getting the 11 head rather than finding the right mate. Of course, a man can get another wife if he can afford the cattle.
The men arrive with traditional Zulu spears, shields, and knobberries (wooden sticks with a heavy wooden end). The men demonstrate their skills, swinging their clubs with a loud slap against the hard leather shields. Although ceremonial, these skills can be put to deadly use. During the violent years of Apartheid, the government sent gangs of these young men, legally armed with traditional weapons, into townships to control ANC activists. Many were killed and mutilated as the government pitted Zulu against Zulu.
There were a group of women seemingly comparable to bridesmaids. Strapped around their knees were homemade rattles made from seeds or rocks placed inside mashed aluminum cans. They danced around in a frenzy of rattles, whistles, and swinging clubs. Over several hours, both sides, groom and bride, slowly marched towards each other. The men advanced threateningly only to be pushed back by the high-stepping whistle-blowing bridesmaids.
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For the most part, the groom remained seated throughout the ceremony, whereas the bride stayed hidden behind an umbrella and a mask of bright string. Eventually, the bride's father comes forward to address the groom. He complains that some of the 11 head of cattle are sickly or too small or whatever. After venting the customary frustrations, his consent is reluctantly given and the ceremony proceeds. The bride sends the groom a large bowl of home-brewed sorghum beer (tastes awful), which is passed around for all to partake. |
At some point, the happy couple are eventually declared man and wife. The afternoon/evening is spent marching from home to home, drinking sorghum beer, and generally celebrating. On the whole, it was one of the most unique experiences we've had.
