South Africa has so much to see and do it would take years to experience the entire country. We spent 5 weeks exploring the southern coast, mostly around Cape Town. With the slump in oil prices and widespread layoffs, one never knows how long we'll be in Nigeria. With a favorable exchange rate and a great lifestyle, being unemployed in South Africa is not entirely unattractive.
While in South Africa, one cannot help but consider the most recent 40 years of Apartheid, international sanctions, and post-Apartheid rehabilitation. There is an obvious animosity and distrust between the races, with a considerable amount of economic Apartheid still in place. Now at the end of Mandela's eight-year rule, the country is truly at a crossroads. This year, for the first time, the African National Congress has a majority in Parliament, enough to change the Constitution. The concern is palpable but there is hope. If this country survives the political battles, it will be an incredibly desirable place to live.
I love these postcards -- they're beautiful shots of Cape Town. The city has everything to offer, from mountains to ocean, with a great mix of cultures. It's much like I imagine 1950's San Francisco: an inexpensive, desirable cosmopolitan with small-town atmosphere. Many South Africans complain about the rising crime rate due to migration from townships to cities. There are large numbers of street people and beggars but I found it no different than any large city in Europe or the States.
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Kris was on his round-the-world trip and we were fortunate enough to meet in Cape Town.Of course, beer was an integral part of the tour, this one at the famous Mama Africa's. Us? Related? Nah.
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A day-drive included Boulder Beach, home to the largest breeding colony of Jackass Penguins in the world -- so called because of their donkey-like bray. They can be heard throughout the surrounding town. The large boulders protect the beach and provide one of only a few places on the continent where the African penguins can safely breed. They're goofy little birds and it's quite entertaining to walk or sit among them as they waddle around the beach. |
One of the highlights of the trip was a swim with the seals. There were hundreds in the water and they are incredibly fast swimmers. They would swim toward us with extraordinary speed, turn on a dime, and bolt away in the flash of an eye. Getting a photograph was next to impossible -- I have an entire roll of blurry fins and bubbles. These are the best of the lot.
Kris and I also participated in the unique South African sport of "Kloofing." This is a popular sport where one hikes up a canyon and jumps into pools of water from the high cliffs. We started with a small 10 foot jump in the lower part of the canyon, successively working our way deeper into the canyon and higher off the water. The final jump was over 70 feet tall -- high enough for one to contemplate one's stupidity while plunging towards the water. Pure adrenalin.
If Cape Town is like San Francisco, then Knysna is a hip Monterey. Knysna is on the Indian Ocean side of the Cape, surrounded by thickly-wooded rolling hills. There's great mountain biking, scuba diving, sea kayaking, sailing, and fantastic seafood. I even spent some time surfing, getting thoroughly rolled before conceding I was no good.
The mouth of the Knysna Bay is a narrow, rocky, passageway known as the Knysna Heads. The tides are swift and brutal through the Heads and the surrounding cliffs provide stunning views. Situated in the midst of the Heads, an old wooden, square-rigged sailing vessel, sunk around the turn of the century, makes for an interesting dive. I also did a great drift dive -- at the peak of the incoming tide we were dropped in the middle of the Heads, careening along the bottom into the middle of the Bay.
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The hostel we stayed at, The Overlander's Lodge, ran a great kayak trip up the Knysna River. Paddling upstream with the incoming tide, we passed through a beautiful gorge, spotting exotic birds and wild monkeys. After a relaxing lunch, we drifted back downstream with the outgoing tide. Great day.
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At the end of our trip, we spent some time in Zulu-Natal, experiencing the Zulu culture. View our photos from a traditional Zulu wedding. |
